Matching articles from the assortment "Starter Relay/Solenoid "
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Starter Relay Solenoid
The starting relay switches the power to the starter when starting.
Depending on the motorcycle engine and starter, up to 50A can be engaged.
The starter relay (starter relay) is switched with the starter button (push button) on the handlebar.
The starter relay switches the high current to the starter via large contacts.
(Our starter relays are tested up to 150A)
The relay is an electromagnet, which switches the contacts on control by the start button.
By pressing the starter button, a small current flows through the electric winding of the relay and the electromagnet attracts and thus closes the thick contacts in the starter relay (magnetic switch) which supply the starter with power. When the relay picks up, you hear a click sound produced by the relay armature and the starter starts to work.
Errors and malfunctions:
- Permanent clattering of the magnetic switch and the alasser does not work.
The cause is probably a too weak or defective (paging) battery.
The battery has low voltage, which is sufficient for the response of the relay, but the high current to the alaser causes the voltage of the battery to collapse, causing the relay to drop again, and the game repeats itself. As a result, the constant clacking caused by the relay anchor is constantly tightened and drops again, as long as the starter button is pressed.
Start relay does not work.
Cause can be a defective start button (contact problem -in street lamps), cable interruption start button to the relay, or from the relay to the battery.
Start relay defective (interruption in the coil or contact erosion)
Starter relay picks up - but the starter does not work.
The reason for this can be a high contact resistance (green chip, loose screw connection, etc.) of the thick cables at the relay and the starter (the current is not sufficient for the starter).
Possible starter defects:
Worn coal of the starter a possible cause
(easy to check tempering)
with light switched on and the light does not darken, the battery voltage changes only slightly during the starting process).
Defective (eaten, rusted) bearings of the starter.
Starter freewheel defective (engine is blocked)
(When starting the light becomes noticeably darker, battery voltage collapses noticeably).
Limitation of the error is with multimeter (voltage measurement 20V range)
Check the voltage at the start button, at the start attempt on the start relay measure the input of the winding and check whether it is switched through on the thick cable and arrives at the starter.
For exact testing, the relay can be removed and tested.
Set multimeter with resistance measurement (measuring range 200 ohms). Clamp test probes to the thick battery terminals. Negative connection of a 12 volt battery to the negative side of the relay (see wiring diagram of the motorcycle) and
Hold the battery positive to the positive side of the relay (wiring diagram - connection to the start button).
Now the relay must be switched through and a resistance of 0 ohms must be measured on the multimeter. If the resistance is much higher than 0 ohms, the relay (contacts) is defective.
If the relay does not switch on (winding interrupted) you will not hear the anchor clack.
Measure the resistance of the winding with the multimeter on the thin connections and compare with the details in the workshop manual.
Our starter relays are made of accessories but in OEM quality.
All starter relays are tested with up to 150A switching current.
The manufacturer of our starter relays is ISO 9001 certified.
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